How to Grow Thuja (Morpankhi) Hedge: Spacing, Water, Trimming (Video)

Transcript

Can a 60-cm spacing save your thuja hedge?

Can a 60-cm spacing save your thuja hedge?

Thuja Hedge Basics

In this video you'll learn the basics of growing a healthy thuja hedge and the one tip that makes all the difference.

Thuja vs Conocarpus

Here's the thing: the plant you see labeled morpankhi is really Platycladus orientalis, a close cousin of true thuja. It grows slowly, so you only need a light trim twice a year. Conocarpus, on the other hand, shoots up fast but drinks a lot of water and can choke drains. Think about it, patience versus instant cover. Which one fits your garden vibe?

Planting time & method

Now, the part most people miss is when and how to plant. Aim for the cool months, October to November or February, so the roots settle before the heat hits. Dig a trench about 45 cm wide and deep, blend the native soil with a third compost, and if you have heavy clay, toss in some coarse sand. Space each seedling 60 to 90 cm apart; closer gives you a tighter screen faster. Set the plant at the same depth it had in the nursery bag, cut the bag away, and keep the root ball intact. That's the foundation for a thriving hedge.

Hedge spacing

A solid hedge needs room to breathe. Planting 60 to 90 cm apart lets each stem get enough light and air, preventing the inner foliage from shading out and turning brown. That spacing also makes trimming easier because you have a clear line of growth to work with. In short, give them space now and you'll save yourself a lot of hassle later.

Water schedule

And this is where it gets interesting: watering deep, not daily. In winter, a soak every ten to fourteen days is enough; spring and autumn stretch to a week; the scorching 45 °C summer demands a deep soak every three to five days, preferably in the early morning. During monsoon, only water if a dry spell shows up, and always check that the soil drains well. Over-watering is just as harmful as drought, so let the soil dry a bit between sessions.

Brown core test

Before you panic over brown needles, try the brown core test. Gently part the branches, if the brown is only on the inside while the tips stay green, it's normal shedding. But if the brown spreads to the outer tips, that's a stress signal, often from drought, water-logging, or a hot wall reflecting sun. Shake out the dead needles, give the plant a proper watering, and keep an eye on the soil moisture.

Trimming tips

Now, the part most people miss is trimming. Lightly trim in March and again in September or October, avoid hard cuts during the May-June heat. Shape the hedge a bit narrower at the top so sunlight reaches the lower branches. Only cut into fresh green growth; old bare wood rarely sprouts again, and a deep cut can leave a permanent hole. And remember, never remove more than a third of the new growth at once.

Summer heat

When the thermometer hits 45 °C, the soil can dry out in hours. That's why a deep soak every three to five days is crucial, and why you should water in the cooler morning hours. Skip the midday mist; it just evaporates and can scorch the foliage. Keep the hedge well-drained, and you’ll see the coppery winter bronze turn back to fresh green in spring.

The one tip to remember

So what should you do? The one tip that ties everything together is simple: plant your thuja in the cool months, give it a deep watering schedule, and keep each plant spaced 60 to 90 cm apart. Do this, and the hedge will fill in slowly but steadily, staying green without the dreaded summer browning. It’s the single habit that makes the difference between a thriving screen and a struggling mess.

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Read the full guide

Read the complete guide on thecareonline.com. This is general information, not medical advice.