Melasma (Jhaiyan) in South Asian Skin: Sunscreen Is the Whole Game (Video)

Transcript

Melasma and Sunscreen

If you’ve ever tried a “fairness” cream and ended up with darker spots, you’re not alone. Let’s talk about why sunscreen is the real game-changer for melasma.

What jhaiyan really is

The story often starts with an inexpensive tube promising fairness, but weeks later the brown patches deepen, the skin thins and fine veins appear. That’s the typical melasma pattern on South Asian faces, and we’ll walk through what it really is and how to manage it.

Understanding the patches

Melasma shows up as symmetrical brown or grey-brown patches, most often on the cheekbones, forehead, bridge of the nose, upper lip and chin. It isn’t a tan, even though the sun fuels it. It’s pigment cells that have gone into overdrive, reacting to light, heat, hormones and friction by making extra colour.

At a glance

Sun, visible light, heat, pregnancy, hormonal pills, thyroid issues and family history can all trigger melasma. The one thing that consistently works is a broad-spectrum SPF 50 tinted sunscreen, applied generously every day and reapplied as needed. Creams may lighten the spots over months, but they can’t cure it, and it returns when protection lapses.

Sunscreen is everything

Every cream, peel or laser will fall short without proper sunscreen. Melasma pigment cells respond not only to UVB and UVA, but also to ordinary visible light and heat from a kitchen stove or a sunny window. A car window, a bright room or a June afternoon can keep the patches active, even without direct sun.

How to apply sunscreen

Choose a sunscreen that says broad-spectrum and shows a UVA label. For melasma, a tinted formula works best. Measure out two full finger-lengths for the face and another finger-length for the neck. Apply it every morning, fifteen minutes before you head out, over moisturizer and under makeup, and reapply after sweating or wiping your face.

What creams actually do

Creams aim to slow pigment production and speed up skin turnover, lightening patches over three to six months. They never erase the over-active cells, so the spots return once sun exposure resumes. Over-the-counter options like azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, kojic acid, arbutin and tranexamic acid are gentle and safe for long-term use.

Beware of harsh creams

Steroid and mercury “fairness” creams are the biggest culprits. A steroid may lighten the area for a few weeks by thinning the skin, but it leaves the skin fragile, shiny and prone to veins, acne and fine hair. When you stop, the melasma often rebounds darker than before. Mercury-containing products can cause systemic toxicity.

Old gentle remedies

Traditional skincare for a blotchy complexion relied on cooling, gentle remedies: chandan paste, rose-water compresses, weekly malai and besan ubtans, and staying out of the afternoon sun under a dupatta. The shade and gentleness helped, but none promised a rapid cure. Those old practices still have value when paired with modern sunscreen.

Lemon and scrub myth

Lemon juice, turmeric paste and harsh scrubs are popular myths, but they can actually worsen melasma. Lemon acid can cause phototoxic burns and dark marks when exposed to sunlight. Rough ubtans create friction, which in brown skin triggers more pigment. Stick to a mild cleanser, a moisturizer, sunscreen and a single active ingredient at night.

Adjustable triggers

Heat is an often-overlooked trigger. Cooking over a tawa or deep-fryer for an hour a day keeps the cheeks warm and can stimulate pigment. Use the exhaust fan, step back while the roti cooks and splash cool water on your face afterwards. Threading or waxing the upper lip and brows creates friction right where melasma sits; consider gentler hair-removal methods or give the skin a break between sessions.

Safety warnings

Never use steroid creams on the face without a dermatologist’s guidance and a clear stop date. Avoid any product lacking an ingredient list or that could contain mercury; symptoms of mercury exposure need medical attention. Hydroquinone above 2 % is prescription-only for a reason and should never be used beyond the prescribed course.

Take care

For the full guide and more gentle tips, head over to thecareonline.com, and remember this is general advice, not a substitute for professional medical care.